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Let me get this straight: I am crap at surfing. I can barely stand on the board and fall in the water after two seconds. When the waves are big, I can even struggle getting past the breaking zone. Most times I’ll find myself riding a wave on my knees rather than on my feet.

In fact, I wouldn’t really call myself a surfer, as I only attempted it for the first time last summer. But I needed a good title for this article… and I am the most enthusiastic beginner. Like… ever! So bear with me and you won’t regret it.