Let me get this straight: I am crap at surfing. I can barely stand on the board and fall in the water after two seconds. When the waves are big, I can even struggle getting past the breaking zone. Most times I’ll find myself riding a wave on my knees rather than on my feet.
In fact, I wouldn’t really call myself a surfer, as I only attempted it for the first time last summer. But I needed a good title for this article… and I am the most enthusiastic beginner. Like… ever! So bear with me and you won’t regret it.
I simply love surfing. Messing around in the water, falling down in the blue, tasting the salt on your lips, feeling the adrenaline rush when riding the wave, … It’s all so much fun. All the effort and the achy arms are worth the amusement. Of course, you need a certain degree of stubbornness and love for the sea to appreciate it, but I’m sure that if you’re reading this, you fulfil at least half of the requirements.
I am in love with the salty water and anything that has to do with it, including scuba diving – here I explain why you should give that a try, too. So it’s not a surprise I enjoy surfing this much. I believe you can have fun giving it a go too, and here’s why:
You will feel that irresistible adrenaline rush
Being on a surfboard is incredible. When you finally catch that wave, managing to time everything right, you will feel the power of the ocean leading you. What an amazing feeling. The water can be so powerful! The bigger the swell, the speedier the wind, the higher the wave, and the greater your adrenaline rush will be – just irresistible.
It will give you an excuse to stay fit
Yep, you need to be a tiny bit fit to surf. Try surfing out when you are completely out of shape and let me know! I had my difficulties last year, although I went jogging three times a week all spring and summer. It’s not very satisfying, nope. So planning to surf gives you the perfect excuse to do some good exercise.
Jogging is good, but doing workouts that involve sit-ups, squats, and push-ups will help you getting stronger arms, abs, and thighs. And you’ll thank yourself when struggling to stand on that board!
image by Colmsurf
You will experience a feel of freedom
Paddling out in the ocean and then hopping on the board to sit for a rest while inspecting the horizon is the best sensation. You will feel free. And will want to shake your feet in the water. And maybe give a little scream.
You will meet hot surfers
Er… I meant cool, like-minded people of course! But actually… yes. That too. Surfing will allow you to get to know new friends from all different paths of life. If they are good surfers, they will most likely have travelled the world during their summer holidays and seen Australia, the Hawaii, and other spectacular places. You will have a chance to listen to their amazing – and sometimes hilarious – stories.
Image by: Christos Tsoumplekas (Back again!)
You will see beautiful sunsets and explore new beaches
Finding the perfect surfing spot can take a while if you’re abroad and don’t really know the area. Well, that’s part of the fun! Exploring new beaches, challenging the nature to reach that particular shore, and then relaxing watching the sun going down are just as good as the surfing experience itself. You’ll enjoy those precious moments too.
So these were my top five reasons why surfing is great. Have I convinced you to try it out? You might want to read up on surfing a bit more before having a crack at it.
First of all, you will need to learn the surfing etiquette, so that you won’t get into any trouble. If you’re curious about what sort of movements this sport involves, you can also get an idea of the basics by watching this series of videos (if you’re just curious start from lesson 6 and watch as much as you like). A great way to decide whether and where to surf is checking Magic Seaweed out – here you’ll find all you need to know about swells and cool surf spots that are worth a visit.
And take note – surfing can be a dangerous sport if you don’t take the necessary precautions. Always get in the water after having warmed up, on a staffed beach, and with a surfing buddy. Take at least one lesson before giving it a go – it will save you a lot of wasted energy and you will learn how to get (and fall) off the board correctly and avoid injuries.
Good luck dudes and dudettes! Let’s hope for no gnarly wipe outs eh?
Featured image by Fathzer